|
The Berg Lake hike | |
|
The video and the Berg Lake trail map show our 2011 backpacking trip. We did a 2 night backpack, camping at Berg Lake, but lots of other trips are possible. Trail mileages (one way):
|
Camping at Berg Lake
There are three campgrounds at Berg Lake: the Marmot campsite at the western edge of the lake (7 sites), the Berg Lake campsite near the lake inlet (26 sites), and Rearguard (5 sites) a short distance beyond the lake en route toward Robson Pass. We camped at Berg Lake, whose selling point is the Hargreaves Hut - a shelter where you can cook, dry your clothes, and generally take more substantial refuge against the elements than is provided by a tent! After a long day hiking in the rain, the hut was a welcome sight for us fair weather backpackers (take a headlamp as it's pretty dark inside). I've read that the Berg Lake campground can get noisy but we didn't find it to be so. The sites are spread out pretty well and where we pitched our tent - just past the bridge - the only sounds at night were the calving of the glacier. If you're a real stickler for solitude, however, Rearguard is the best option. We awoke to find a couple of deer grazing beside the trail next to our tent. |
Day 2: A day hike toward Snowbird Pass
The dismal weather of day one cleared up overnight (or so we thought), and the next morning we set off for Snowbird Pass. From Berg Lake campground it's about 14 miles roundtrip, with 2,500 of climbing, to reach the pass. The trail follows the Robson River for a short distance across the plain beyond Berg Lake, before turning east into the barren valley containing the Robson glacier. Signs show how rapidly the glacier has retreated over the last century, but even in its diminished state it's huge - as impressive a glacier as you'll find in North America outside of the icy north. The trail skirts the lake at the glacier's terminus, before ascending along the eastern edge of the moraine. The trail is mostly in great shape - there are just a few sections where you follow cairns across the boulder fields, and another short stretch where chains bolted into the rock provide handrails. The views over the glacier to the backside of Robson are exceptional. Finally the trail climbs steeply through an alpine meadow to reach the pass itself, which offers view in the other direction across the Reef Icefield. A return of iffy weather - including a brief August snowstorm - combined with self-inflicted woes (a late start, stops for photo taking, laziness...) meant we failed to make it to Snowbird Pass itself, but it was still a great day hike! |
Berg Lake trail reservations and options
Berg Lake can be visited on a day hike, as a short backpacking trip, or as part of the 65+ mile-long Moose River Route. I've done it twice, once as a day hike and then more recently as a 2 night camping trip. The Berg Lake hiking season is limited by snow, and how early you can hike the trail will depend on what sort of winter its been. Unless you're planning on trudging through snow, mid-June is probably the earliest plausible date, though Snowbird Pass is closed for both May and June to protect wildlife. All things considered, July and August are probably the best time of year for hiking the Berg Lake trail. Berg Lake day hike: A day hike to Berg Lake is at least 24 miles roundtrip (if you turn around at the shore of the lake), and more like 26 miles if you want to get the best views of the Berg glacier. It sounds like a pretty hard core endeavour, but you don't have to hike the whole way! Mountain bikes are both allowed and very useful on the first 4.4 miles of trail, up to about the Kinney Lake campground, which is generally wide and quite bikeable (though there are some steep sections). 17 miles of hiking plus 9 miles of biking is eminently doable in the long summer days this far north - it took us about 11 hours moving fairly briskly but also stopping often for photos! Mountain bikes can be rented readily in Jasper (just to the east in Alberta), and you can save a few pounds of weight by filtering water which is in munificent abundance along the trail. 2-3 night backpack: The advantage of backpacking - aside from any spiritual joys of camping out in the wilderness - is that from a camp at Berg Lake you can hike on to further spectacular scenery beyond. Aside from the Snowbird Pass route we tackled, there are shorter day hikes to Hargreaves Lake and glacier, to Toboggan Falls, and into the Mumm Basin. There are almost 100 tent sites in the various campgrounds along the trail, which can be reserved through the Discover Camping site. The campgrounds tend to fill up on busy weekends, but at other times you can likely hike the trail on short notice. Be sure to take good raingear, and a stove if you plan on cooking as camp fires are not allowed. Dogs are OK on day hikes, but not on overnight trips. Moose River Route: Mount Robson park has other backpacking routes, including, for serious hikers only, the 65+ miles of the Moose River Route, which passes Berg Lake and includes sections in Jasper National Park in Alberta. I've not done this, but the Patton / Robinson guide has more details if you're interested. Bears: Robson and the Berg Lake trail are grizzly country, and a sign in 2011 noted that grizzly bears had been sighted traversing the trail corridor. My unscientific guess is that bears are thicker on the ground elsewhere (in parts of Jasper, for example, or in Kluane), but some care is warranted: all the campsites have bear-proof food lockers (no canisters or tree-hanging gymnastics needed), and we made plenty of noise and carried bear spray while on trail. |
Useful referencesFirst off, I'd recommend you check out my brother's Mount Robson photos, taken on the same trip. We normally shoot independently, but amidst the constant rain and humidity on day one my Canon 5D Mk2 photographed its last (credit to Canon though: they repaired it for a very modest sum). So most of the photos and video here were taken with Dave's (Nikon) DSLR and a Canon S90 that kept working just fine. For practical information, I suggest:
Mount Robson
Provincial Park - the official website
Canadian Rockies Trail Guide by
Brian Patton and Bart Robinson. This is a very comprehensive guide to trails in the
Canadian Rockies. Essential reading, especially if you're considering some of the longer backpacking options in Mount Robson
provincial park. Don't Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies by Kathy and Craig Copeland. People seem to have a love / hate relationship with this guide. Our experience was that the hikes they rated as "Premier" or "Outstanding" were, indeed, just that. |