One of the black-robed custodians greets a young visitor to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Responsibility for running
the Church has been divided since the 19th century among different Christian denominations, who share control
under a tragi-comic set of regulations known simply as the "status quo". Even more bizarrely (at least to anyone
unaccustomed to the complexities of Jerusalem) two Muslim families serve as guardians of the key, in
an arrangement that has apparently persisted unchanged since 1192.